Glossary of sewing terms. I like the look of the notched lapel vest, and I like the slim notched jacket. November 1, at
The feature was carried into day clothing by the increasing popularity of the peaked dinner jacket. The shawl lapel , shawl collar , or roll collar is a continuous curve. Originally seen on the Victorian smoking jacket , it is now most common on the dinner jacket or tuxedo. It is also commonly used on the mess jackets. Lapels have a buttonhole on the left, which is intended to hold a boutonnière , a decorative flower. These are now only commonly seen at more formal events.
To hold the flower properly, a loop is fixed to the back of the lapel. For symmetry, double breasted suits often have a button hole on each lapel. The width of the lapel is a widely varying aspect of suits, and has changed widely over the years. The most common style of lapel, the notched lapel, originated in older types of jacket or coat that buttoned to the neck, by unbuttoning and turning back the upper part of the closure at an angle indoors or in hot weather, and then removing the upper buttons.
The upper points are derived from the end corners of the collar. This can be duplicated by similarly turning back the closure in a modern button-to-the-neck garment such as an outdoor coat or a boilersuit. Sometimes when caught outside in bad weather in a lapelled jacket and nothing over it, its wearer may unfold the lapels and hold them that way to temporarily reproduce the ancestral to-the-neck closure. As tailcoats evolved rapidly among the wealthy during the Regency period , various styles of closure saw popularity, from fastenings at the top, the middle, or even hanging open.
The turn-down collar popular on earlier garments like the frock was succeeded by long lapels folded down to below the waist fashionably tightly nipped in. Invariably, there were long rows of buttons down the front, most of which did not fasten; in fact even into the late Victorian era , all frock coats had a long row of button holes on the lapel, long since obsolete.
As buttoning styles changed, the loosely folded front of the coat correspondingly shifted shape, and the V then formed by the meeting of the fold and the collar continues now in the traditional shape of notched and peaked lapels, both of which originate from that period. Once double breasted frock coats were established, lapels were sharply creased and their form was more static, varying only in details such as height, since they were buttoned nearly to the neck by the Edwardians , then lengthened to the classic three-button shape, the two-button jacket being a further American innovation.
The other significant change over that period was the use of the revers in the construction of the lapel, as the Victorians used elaborate three-part patterns to cut a fold of cloth from the lining into the front of the lapel, a universal consideration of frock coats and dress coats of the period, but abandoned in favor of the current single-piece lapels at the same time as the switch to morning coats and lounge suits.
Modern lapels are largely identical in form to their s counterparts. Some historians of dress such as Bernard Rudofsky have ridiculed the evolution of jacket lapels into "vastly unnecessary flaps" and "decorative rudiments",  while others have celebrated the transformation of lapels into "fetishes" as part and parcel of fashion as expression. Though less common among men's suits in the west, other jacket styles feature no lapels.
Jackets with mandarin collars , also called stand collars, band collars or choker collars, include Nehru jackets and various military dress uniforms, such as the British Army and US Marine Corps. Turndown collars, also called Prussian collars and ghillie collars, were once common on military uniforms and on the Mao suit. From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia. For the town, see Lapel, Indiana. These questions and more are answered in our Black Tie article, which is recommended reading for anybody looking to get their hands on a tux.
To answer your questions specifically: A dinner jacket the top half of your tuxedo should have 1 button. This is an essential tradition and a rule we never advise breaking. The cuffs feature four buttons as you can see on the left arm of this gentleman here. Either shirt collar type is appropriate for a black tie affair but, as you can see from how we photograph our own tuxedos , we prefer the turn down collar.
April 5, at I have many blazers that I use for suits, can I use them into a tuxedo? As for turning a blazer into a tuxedo, do you mean matching a blazer with tuxedo pants? This is sort of a black tie no-no. There are no synonyms for lapel in English, Suresh. There are plenty of synonyms for wide. A simple Google search uncovers broad, extensive, spacious, vast and spread out. But lapels are a specific thing. I have a pointed lapel jacket. Can I alter it to a notch lapel or will the process ruin the jacket entirely?
This is impossible and would, in fact, ruin the jacket. I hav a blue lapel with black collar…would be nic in a midnight blue suit…. Tarun, but our concierges are always ready to help you customize your Black Lapel suit however you like.
Email us at concierge blacklapel. What are the key components to a power suit? I was thinking of getting a custom suit made: Not fixated on color yet. We believe there is only one component to a power suit and that is confidence. The simplest suit will look like a power suit on a self-assured man. For more specific recommendations on how to customize your suit, email us at concierge blacklapel.
Also, I would like to wear a long tie and possibly a vest.. Your size has little to do with the kind of lapel you choose, Ravelius. For a tuxedo, the choices are peak and shawl lapel and choice is more about preference and appropriateness. A shawl lapel comes standard with our blue tuxedos like our Royal Blue or Midnight Blue.
The blue tuxes are a little more festive and a touch less formal, so the shawl lapel works, plus the shawl creates a nice unbroken line of black satin all the way around the neck which makes for a sharper all around look. I am getting married in October. I want to look really good as I will be geting bespoke and I think the lapel will make a difference. In your opinion, what do you think the best lapel for me would be, peak or shawl?
Also, should I play with the colour a little bit? Maybe a black lapel on a darker grey tux? Since this question was best answered with your specific needs in mind we hope the answer we sent via email was helpful, Carlo.
Feel free to follow up for my advice from a stylist either here or via email. All of the tuxedos we make are made to your measurements. We make suits and tuxes for a lot of guys who are in a similar position to yours Mandeep. An ill-fitting tuxedo is definitely something you want to avoid. So we recommend that you get a proper set of measurements and get a tuxedo made to those measurements.
Glad we were able to help you out via email, Deric. For a custom shawl tuxedo, keeping it classy: Would you go with back pockets, one back pocket, or none? Would you ho with double, single, or no vent. We offer all of the options you mentioned, Mike. For the record, if anybody else out there is stuck on customization choices and reading this, feel free to email us our stylists for one-on-one advice at concierge blacklapel. Instead, take a cue from his stylish dad , who cleans up nice in a shawl lapel tuxedo.
On a black tuxedo with a silk peaked lapel, is it normal for the silk on the lapel to carry around the collar? First things first, nothing about a tuxedo should ever be normal.
Tuxedos should make you feel like James Bond. Anyway, on tuxedo peak lapels, the satin or grosgrain on the lapels should stop at the pointed edges of the lapel. The satin or grosgrain is carried around the neck when a tuxedo has a shawl lapel, which has a continuous curve without breaks or points. Only if you want to look like as good as Ryan Gosling. Ive got 3 weddings to attend this summer, I looking at a grey slim fit suit with notch lapel.
Should I add a waistcoat? Also is a white shirt a must? A waistcoat is completely optional, but we love looks like this because they give you more ways to wear the suit. As you can also see, from that suit, we do not think a white shirt is a must even for a wedding. That said, you should have a lot of white shirts. I am rather thin. I was thinking of buying a grey suit with a standard notch lapel and getting it tailored.
We make customized suits to your exact measurements. To get one of these suits, take a look at our collection of fabrics , pick one out you like, customize it and have a friend help you enter your measurements and you can order right away. As for the satin, we handle special requests through our concierge service. Just send us a note at concierge blacklapel. There was a time when well-dressed men used gorge lines to create proportion and balance.
In the s Armani lead the march toward lower and lower gorge lines on everybody, regardless of height. If you mean a pocket square, the answer is yes. I also prefer the evening waistcoat to the cummerbund, which is also hard to find, but is there etiquette on matching the waist covering with the lapel style?
You can find slim peak lapels from one custom clothier we know of. All of our suits and tuxes come with the choice of regular and slim peak lapels. Are you going to get kicked out of a black tie event for wearing a waistcoat with a shawl lapel? Do they go together?
What type of bow tie should he select? I am really slim built about cm but only 55kg and am looking at a black cashmere wool coat with matching black cashmere wool trousers for a really formal black tie gala event. Would you recommend a peak or shawl lapel for the coat, considering I am very slim? I was thinking of pairing it with a wing-tipped shirt and a black pre-tied bow-tie, what do you think? Both are appropriate for a black tie outfit regardless of your build. What will make a difference, is how wide those lapels are.
In that case, your stylist would likely recommend a slim lapel. To pick the conversation up privately, drop us a line at concierge blacklapel. What do you call it when the edge of the lapel has an accent color?
I often see these on more stylish jackets, not as part of a suit. Is it a fad? Resisting the urge to call it an atrocity , we can say that lapel trim is certainly popular in fast-fashion stores these days. How long do you expect the current trend of Mad Men-style narrow lapels and ties to continue?
I know the pendulum tends to swing back and forth and slim-cut is probably here to stay for guys that can wear it but the lapels? This is a tough one, Craig. The narrow ties and lapels of the late 50s and early 60s were a reaction to the wide style that were in vogue in the early 50s and 40s.
The pendulum swung too far back to wide in the 70s and 80s, we evened out in the 90s and then trimmed down further in the first decade of the 21st century. Will the pendulum swing back as drastically as it did in the 70s?
So we say wear you slim ties and lapels without fear of reproach. I am planning to buy a tuxedo. I neither have a slim body nor fat but a well proportionate one. Which lapel would look better? Since you are a medium sized guy, the choice of lapel types in a tuxedo is less about width and more about your personal style. If you are getting a tux for conservative formal affairs like galas, a peak lapel might be more appropriate.
The good news is, there is no right answer. Hi, I have a shawl lapel on my tuxedo and was wondering whether this would go with a long neck tie instead of a bow tie? Many guys are hesitant to go all the way with their black tie outfits and wear an actual black bow tie. But if you want to wear a proportionally balanced long neck tie with the shawl lapel jacket go right ahead.
A shawl lapel is a stylish choice for an evening jacket aka a tuxedo , Sheetal, but for everyday wear a shawl lapel suit or blazer is less appropriate. For more on this topic check out our story on the right shirt collar for you. I too have a question, can I wear a peak collar to a black tie? I seem to get conflicting advice about the collar and would like some assurance. By peak collar, do you mean a wing tip shirt collar?
If so, the answer is, yes, a wing tip collar is always appropriate for a black tie affair. The beauty of a turndown collar dress shirt for black tie events is that you can also wear it with other outfits a wing tip collar is pretty much only appropriate for black tie.
In what occasion is it ok to wear a suit in which the lapel is a different color form the suit jacket? None, in our book. We always keep our tuxedo lapels black to keep the whole look black tie. Otherwise, we recommend steering clear of contrasting lapel colors, Marc. That is not to say the shawl lapel has no place outside of the black tie dinner jacket. We have been known to wear shawl lapel blazers around Black Lapel from time to time. Of course, we have a lot of blazers and the shawl lapel ones are not in the regular rotation.
They come out every so often and we all marvel at how stylish and fashion forward the wearer is. Among all those styles of TUX.. It really comes down to what kind of wedding it is. Some weddings call for the traditional formality of a peak lapel, others call for the slightly more relaxed look of the shawl lapel. It depends on the jacket, Ramcho. Most of the time shawl lapels are found on dinner jackets as part of a tuxedo.
In that case, a bow tie is necessary to complete the look. A long necktie would not be appropriate. A shawl lapel on, say, a sport jacket is less common. When doing that a long necktie is optional. I saw a photo of Adrien Brody wearing a Roberto Cavalli?
Would you wear this to a wedding as the groom? Where would I be able to find something like that? Thank you so much for these tips. Glad we could help, Divesh. I have a photo of a painting of a man said to be a relative from the early to mid s. He died in Others have said that it could not be from the s, and site the coat and dress as the reason why.
He has a high white shirt, a colorful tie that lays like a bow tie, a light colored vest much like the vest of today and a dark coat that rides up high around his neck in the back.
The lapel is wide and extends almost to where the sleeve begins. It has a very deep notch that extends from the outside almost to the center fold. The man said to be in the photo lived on an estate in present day Latvia, was born in and died in Thanks for reading all of this. Your best bet for getting the date of the painting is probably taking it to the curators at your local art museum. They may be able to give you a time frame for the clothes in the painting. My fiance is looking for a Red tuxedo jacket with light grey shawl collar for the wedding.
Do you all offer those color combinations? Check out that tux here. I love skinny ties, but I have less than 2. Walk before you run, Eyasu. Stock up on the essentials, then explore the sartorial extremes. Not unless you work at Black Lapel! Please I need help. Not really your thing but it is a jacket and lapel issue. Is there a way I can send you a picture of how far I am. The lapels have been changed many times and it still bothers me.
Send pics to concierge blacklapel. The unknown side of a suit jacket. Thanks this helped me a lot. The shawl lapel in the photo is 2. That tuxedo was made custom for the wearer and the lapel width will vary some depending on the size of your chest. Since we make everything custom, we keep the proportions the same from suit to suit. Is there a particular name for this type of shawl lapel? Pictured in the link is Tom Ford wearing a variation of the traditional shawl lapel.
Black lapel please drop some knowledge on me. I just got a job where I may need to wear a suit every now and then. I can only afford maybe one or two at the moment. What would you suggest? Color, lapel, slim fit, extra slim fit, patterns? We could, and will, write a whole article on how to make the most of a single suit for the guy who only wears a suit occasionally, but in the meantime, here are a couple of bits of advice from the Compass archives.
First, we would direct you to out What to Wear to an Interview story where we highlighted the benefits of the Charcoal Gray Suit. The second story is How to Wear a Vest Casually.
Both of these stories will give you ideas for how to get a lot of use out of one suit. You, sir, are a perpetrator of black tie fraud.
For, you have worn the improper bow tie with that shawl lapel tuxedo. That said, a diamond bow tie is a tad bit less formal than a more traditional butterfly, just as a shawl lapel tux is a touch less formal than a peak lapel.
For more on the rules of black tie, check out our Black Tie story. For more creative ways to break said rules, check out our Beyond Black Tie story. Where can I find a champagne colored dinner jacket with a black shawl lapel?
I really like the look and I want to wear it to my prom. I saw kanye west wear it in one of his videos with black trousers. Both of those come with black lapels and, unlike ivory-colored dinner jackets, you can wear these year round. For more unorthodox views on Black Tie, take a look at our Beyond Black Tie story that features these two tuxedos. The rule of thumb is to match your tie width to your lapel width for more on that check out our Tie Width primer.
All blazers and suit jackets from Black Lapel can be made with a peak or slim peak lapel, depending on your preference. So if you already have a collection of skinny ties, go with the slim peak lapel, Steven.
And if there were a rule we would encourage you to break it as we did in our Beyond Black Tie piece. As we laid out in Black Tie , a simple white shirt with a semi-spread collar with French cuffs and a turn down collar is always a safe bet. Actually the main problem for me to opt for long tie is that I am already wearing a bow tie for the wedding so had to do some change.
Sorry to confuse you, Karan. For more details, there is a picture of a knit textured bow tie and a link to where to get one in the Beyond Black Tie story. Wanted to ask can we wear a tie with a shawl lapel tux… Actually I am not interested in wearing a bow tie. As we stated in Black Tie , a tuxedo deserves a bow tie to keep the look formal. Of course, you could break some rules, as we suggested in Beyond Black Tie , but we suggest breaking this rule by going with a knit texture rather than a long tie.
A shawl lapel is generally seen only on tuxedos today. Better to put your whole ass into it and wear a bow tie. We DO, however, like the shawl lapel on a blazer. This is not exactly an everyday look but a shawl blazer can make for a unique addition to your blazer arsenal.
Please email concierge blacklapel. You can choose either a notch or peak lapel for a three-piece suit. DO you carry the white tux with wide and long black shawl lapel?
Sorry Jean, no white dinner jackets with or without black lapels here. ASOS offers something along those lines, though. We also do partial lining , which a few of our Dubai customers have special requested.
The tuxedo above, the pants. They should never be worn with a Belt right? Does the tux above have a cummerbund? And I looked for royal blue cloth in my local market, it was quiet lighter and shinier in color as compared to the picture. And please can you tell if a plain white shirt with simple white buttons can be worn with the tux..
The best thing to do would be to direct your questions to concierge blacklapel. Is it navy blue or charcoal blue? And could you detail me in with the stuff of cloth material Plus how many vents and cuff buttons and what shirt. The tuxedo above is the Solid Royal Blue Tuxedo. The yarn is Super s. The pattern is solid. Not that you can see it in the photo of the lapels above, but this particular jacket has four cuff buttons the standard for Black Lapel suits and tuxedos and no vents traditional for tuxedos.
The shirt here is a Solid White with hidden placket. What cloth material for the solid charcoal blur tux? That is the Solid Royal Blue Tuxedo. Traditionally a bow tie is made with silk, however the lapels are not. The lapels on a tuxedo are made with either satin or grosgrain.
This piece is about lapels, though. A peak lapel, slim or regular, can work without a tie if the suit would otherwise work without a tie, Drew. I have suit with a 4 inch lapel. It was very expensive and looks great. Is it out of style or can I wear it to a formal wedding? That said, we think our tux is sexier. Reed, can you elaborate a bit for us? You can also email our concierge team!
Sorry, it looked like the tuxedo jacket had a soft shoulder going on. I think I was mistaken…. Your email address will not be published. Like What You See? We'll send you style advice and intel for the modern man.
September 26, at 4: May 23, at June 13, at March 10, at 9: March 15, at 9: September 14, at September 14, at 2: June 28, at 1: June 28, at 2: April 28, at 6: May 3, at November 28, at 2: November 28, at 6: November 28, at 1: November 28, at November 29, at 8: Happy Thanksgiving - The Compass. November 22, at 3: November 28, at 4: November 1, at November 2, at 2: October 15, at 9: October 17, at September 2, at September 2, at 3: August 25, at 6: August 26, at July 11, at 5: July 13, at 3: June 27, at 5: June 29, at 1: May 31, at June 3, at April 23, at 2: April 25, at April 6, at 7: April 11, at 4: April 6, at Suresh D C says: March 11, at 1: March 11, at February 3, at 8: February 26, at January 25, at 3: February 10, at 9: January 7, at 3: January 8, at 7: August 25, at 9: September 11, at
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